Copan ~ The Rise and Fall of a Maya Empire

Our convoluted travels in Central America have taken us to extraordinary Maya sites, among them Tikal, Caracol, Lamanai and Quirigua. Last weekend we ventured from our watery home on the Rio Dulce in Guatemala to the impressive ruins of Copan, a four hour drive through western Honduras and into the mountain valley that was called Xukpi by its original inhabitants.

Stones Tell the Story

Although less majestic than Tikal ~the mother of all Mayan ruins~ Copan is distinguished by its elaborate sculptures and carved stone monoliths or stelae. The quality and detail of the glyph stones have made it possible for epigraphers to interpret and understand much about the Maya civilization.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1980, the ruins of Copan have been called the “Athens of the New World”. Kings with names like Great Sun Lord Quetzal Macaw, Waterlily Jaguar and Eighteen Rabbit built and maintained an empire that was a military and commercial power during the Classic Period (AD 250-800) of Pre-Columbian history. In its glory days, more than 20,000 people populated the 50 acre site. Archaeologists from Harvard’s Peabody Museum described the city as a “huge machine at work at the center of a civilization with hieroglyphic writing, an advanced calendar and complex astronomy.”

Sting Rays and Seashells

During early excavations, evidence of trade with distant cities linked the site to Teotihuacan, Mexico (700 miles to the north) and other Maya centers. Sting ray spines, marine shells, pottery made throughout Central America, pieces of jade and small amounts of gold were found. Burial chambers revealed much about their rituals and deification of nature.

Collapse of Copan ~ A Future Foretold

They may have honored and ritualized their deities, seasons, crops and animals, but it wasn’t enough for their survival in the long run. As urban sprawl engulfed the area, farms were replaced with housing for the increasing population. Eventually, deforestation led to major erosion, flooding and ultimately the downfall of the empire. Many deaths were caused by infectious diseases and malnutrition. Natural disasters, particularly earthquakes, collapsed many of the ruins, although evidence of 3450 structures remains, with many unexcavated sites still buried under the valley growth.

Hotel and Travel Tips

Our friend, Orin on Antares, arranged a shuttle van from Rio Dulce to Copan Ruinas with Ottitours. There were eight of us and the cost was $55 per couple for the one-way trip (approx. 4 1/2 hrs). We stayed at the Hotel Maya Acropolis which was clean, friendly, simply furnished and reasonable w/ private bathroom and hot water at a cost of $50 per double room. For our money (lempiras, that is) the best restaurant in town is Twisted Tanyas. Welchez Cafe has good espresso but there are other coffee houses in town with excellent coffee. Before going to the site we explored an informative museum in town that set the stage for our visit to the ruins with its diversity of stelae, funerary pieces and terra cotta figurines. The walk to the site is only 15 minutes from town and very pleasant. We hired a terrific guide, Juan, who was knowledgeable and entertaining. If you are anywhere near this part of the world, make the effort to visit Copan. You will not be disappointed.

Acropolis Maya Hotel